Originally published in Wet Papers Surf Magazine, El Salvador.
What is Surfing?
Surfing is described as a hobby, a sport, and a lifestyle. It can be serious, playful, competitive, or meditative. It creates a unique connection to nature, offering a calming, almost meditative state. However, it also occasionally produces violent wipeouts that serve as a stark reminder of our mortality.
Surfing has an almost mythical allure, drawing some to rent big, waterlogged foam boards on vacation to nail that one image to post on Instagram. In contrast, others devote their lives to chasing waves and connecting with a global network of other, more dedicated surfers. After surfing for a couple of decades, I have realized that at its core, surfing is therapy. It brings joy, excitement, and healing, even when we can’t fully explain why. Catching a wave may be fleeting, but its impact on those who surf, even just once, reveals deeper, more profound effects.
Connection: ADHD and Surfing
In the fall of 2023, I was asked, “Have you ever been diagnosed with ADHD?” As an adult, the question caught me off guard. A month later, a doctor confirmed a diagnosis of ADHD, anxiety, and depression. It was shocking, but suddenly, my life’s patterns made sense. Everything clicked from my obscure childhood hobbies to adult frustrations with situations that others navigated easily. During this time, I realized that surfing had always been an essential part of how I managed my mental health. The ocean is where I can disconnect. Since I was a kid, it has given me focus and peace like nothing else.
Surfing and the Psyche
There’s a reason we’re drawn to the ocean. The rhythmic movement of the sea has a calming effect, much like prayer or meditation. For surfers, the ocean becomes both a temple for peace and a training ground for mental strength. From day one, surfers realize they must flow with all conditions—inside themselves and in the physical realm. There are wipeouts, frustration with poor conditions, lack of progress, or even with other surfers. But through the love of surfing, we learn to manage the physical and mental challenges. This connection between surfing and the psyche is undeniable.
Mental Health and Surfing
In recent years, competitive surfers have recognized the importance of mental health coaching in improving performance. At Puro Surf, a surf academy in El Salvador, staying present and managing emotions is now nearly as important as fitness and technical ability. Similarly, Surftismo, also in El Salvador, provides surf therapy for children with autism. This initiative is proof of how surfing helps children to develop confidence and even to regulate their emotions. Surfing and being in the ocean is therapy for the kids at a Surftismo event. These two separate programs offer profound benefits. They teach us skills and provide improved emotional well-being that remains with us long after we have left the beach.
Global Surf Community
Whether you’re out surfing with friends or paddling into a lineup of strangers, surfing teaches you to read both the environment and the people around you. Across the world, there’s an unspoken code among surfers—a shared understanding of the ocean and mutual respect. Even when misguided localism rears its head, it often stems from a desire to preserve surf culture and tradition. Ultimately, surfing is a community and community is essential for personal growth.
Oceans of Emotions
After recognizing the profound impact surfing has had on my mental health, I felt a deep urge to share my newfound education with friends, family, and the community. As I delved deeper into the connection between surfing and mental health, I met others who had arrived at similar conclusions—many using surfing to calm their minds, others for inspiration or as a way to heal from trauma. Together, we shared our experiences and realized we needed to bring this understanding to the broader surfing community. That’s how Oceans of Emotions was born.
Oceans of Emotions is an event that explores the intersection of surfing and mental health. Our goal is to create a safe space where people can share their feelings, become vulnerable, and, in doing so, grow—both as individuals and as a community. Through open discussions, workshops, and personal stories, we hope to foster an environment where the therapeutic power of surfing is not just talked about but truly felt. I’m incredibly grateful to Henry, Maria, Annette, and Ralphy for supporting this vision and bringing our first events to life at Looking Too Good in El Zonte.
Spread Aloha
Surfing is much more than a hobby or sport. It creates deep connections to the community, to nature, and to yourself. Nothing in my life has had such a profound influence on me. I hope that by reading this, you feel inspired to (more deeply) explore the benefits that surfing can provide. Recognizing this incredible gift is the first step. Beyond that, share this knowledge with your loved ones and community. Even if you don’t surf, simply being near the ocean can bring peace and connection. The ocean has a way of grounding us and helping us feel more at ease with ourselves and the world.
I encourage you to support organizations promoting the link between surfing and mental health, such as Oceans of Emotions and other groups focusing on this connection. You can reach out to the organizers of this initiative – Henry, Maria, Annette, and me – on Instagram at @oceanosdeemociones. Also, take a look at @Surftismo for programs designed for autistic kids.
Through participation, support, or simply spreading awareness, we can help more people discover the healing power of surfing—and the ocean. Together, we can continue to spread aloha and strengthen the bonds within our global (surf) community.
